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Probably the single biggest reason why western models are used extensively in advertising is posing. Japanese people, when placed in front of the camera are generally a little stiff, lacking the spontaneity, comfort and range that are invaluable in the makeup of a professional model.
So when a Japanese client examines a models portfolio a few very simple qualities are looked out for:
- Does the model possess the right look for the job?
- Does the model demonstrate a range of different looks and poses in the portfolio?
- Are there plenty of clear photos of the models face and full body?
- How much experience (tear sheets) does the model have?
- Does the model appear professional?
There really isn't a whole lot one can do in this department if the client is looking for someone with blonde hair and blue eyes and the model possesses darker features... oh well, better luck next time! For the most part, however, a job's image is left undecided and it's up to the model at the casting to demonstrate that they are suitable for the task at hand. And the portfolio, more than ever in Japan, is a model's single most important tool to get this message across.
Let's take a peak at what elements make up a winning portfolio in Japan...
The stereotypical Japanese person is quiet, shy, hard-working and loves to take photographs. (Having lived in Japan for 3 years, I'd say it's quite true, mind you I have met plenty that disprove this image entirely!) Nevertheless, the point is quiet and shy don't usually cut it in the modelling business. What does sell, and what the Japanese find particularly alluring is the range of emotion and feeling professional western models can deliver behind a camera.
So portfolios that show the model going from incredibly happy to terrifyingly angry, from soft and innocent to cocky and cute, demonstrate to the client that any pose is possible. And for Japan there is no stronger selling point. The more range a model has in the book, the more professional he or she becomes thus increasing the chances of the booking a job significantly.
This is a common element lacking in most portfolios I am presented with. Not enough photos of the model shown in full body. Remember, a large portion of high paying jobs in Japan come in the form of catalogues and although not usually very complimentary, nearly all of the shots will show the model in full length. So include at least 6 poses from head to toe in the book. And make it clear! Complex lighting and shadows only confuses and annoys Japanese clients.
This also goes for head shots. Photos that clearly show your skin condition, your eyes, (your face in general) is always better than placing emphasis on hiding "any flaws" you might have. No one model is perfect - honest, interesting, well-compositioned photos are appreciated and rewarded in Japan.
Oh and for ladies include a few shots with your hair tied back. Japanese faces are generally larger and rounder so they don't normally pull their hair back because it only accentuates these features. They find this ability quite attractive. And profile! Believe it or not, noses are a big deal in Japan. A nose that sticks out a bit is "cool" , so (girls AND guys) be sure to have more than just a couple photos of your profile (and 3/4) in the porfolio.
It used to be that a model with 6 photos in her book and almost no experience could come to Tokyo, work for 2 months straight and leave the city with a great big fistful of yen. Well, times have changed. Nowadays, the climate is a lot more competitive - girls and guys with sensational books are having a difficult time even being invited to Japan, let alone working successfully. Japanese clients have become a great deal more discerning and now demand that the model have a solid amount of experience under his of her belt.
Tear sheets help. Having work that you've done included in your portfolio will place you in a much better position. But it's not the end all and be all on the subject. Having a collage of polaroids of work you've done at the of the book can work just as well or even better. Always ask yourself - "Does my portfolio show that I have experience behind the camera and that I can handle any situation presented to me?" If it does...fine. If not...TEST MORE!
My final recommendation is on my favourite subject - professionalism. Being a professional model in Japan is having a portfolio with range and experience and a serious, confident attitude along side it. Be courteous, never complain, never be late and give 100% at all times. It goes a very long way in the country.
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